News West Gippsland Autumn Photography Trail
Just 90 minutes from Melbourne, you’ve never had to travel so close to go further.
West Gippsland is a photographer’s dream with once-upon-a-time streetscapes and wild wonders from forested trails and rolling hills, to fern gullies and lush waterfalls.
Follow this photography trail taking in the heritage town of Walhalla, the grand Noojee Trestle Bridge, show-stopping Toorongo Falls and starry skies overhead the giant sculpture, the Neerim Bower.
Walhalla
One of Gippsland’s most Instagram-able towns, Walhalla boasts poetic streetscapes, laced with yesteryear buildings. The gold-mining village is particularly picturesque when the town becomes a watercolour of pomegranate and honeycomb over autumn.
Some of the best places for photography in Walhalla are from the Walhalla Tramline Walk or take a wander up Church Hill Rd, along the brick wall on the left for a closer view. The Old Brass Band Rotunda also makes a very handsome subject.
Photographer's Tips
Photographer: David Hannah
Walhalla is a wonderful place to photograph, best times are during autumn colours and when the early spring blossoms are in bloom.
It's in a deep valley so days are short, shoot from 11am till 3 pm to get full sun on the town.
Look for high vantage points (the Tramline Walkway is good) as the town is quite spread out.
Use people in shots to add interest and give a sense of scale.
Don’t be afraid to shoot into the sun... Just override any auto settings and shoot with a small aperture to get sunbursts.
Toorongo Falls
Walk amongst lush fern gullies in this postcard-worthy landscape in Noojee. Hear gentle trickles and raging torrents of the Toorongo Falls and Amphitheatre Falls on the 2.2km loop walk (1 hour), which takes in both waterfalls.
Photographer's Tips
Photographer: Gavin Hansford
The movement of the water as if flows can be captured in photographs by using longer shutter speeds, and to achieve this it is best to use a tripod to keep the camera steady during the exposure. The best time to visit is usually after recent rainfall and when the sky is overcast to provide a nice even light.
When composing a waterfall photograph include elements of the surrounding landscape that give a sense of the place you are in, and also think about how the water will move through your composition and draw your attention into the image you are creating.
Noojee Trestle Bridge
Towering at over 20m high, and spanning 100m in width, it’s difficult not to be impressed with this beautifully preserved timber railway bridge. Framed by a backdrop of towering mountain ash forest, this bridge is one of the last remaining historic trestle bridges in Victoria.
Walk along the top the bridge, which may as well be a canopy walk, or pack a picnic to enjoy at the base. The bridge is also the starting point for a number of walking and cycling trails.
Photographer's Tips
Photographer: Nicky Cawood
Low wide angles show height and size of the structure.
People or something in the foreground emphasises the size of the structure.
Take advantage of leading lines around your subject to add interest to the shot.
Try different perspectives - shooting from below, on the bridge itself and on the banks around the bridge for a good variety of shots.
Neerim Bower
Bask under Gippsland’s next-level night skies, thanks to low light pollution away from the big city lights. Entering Neerim South from the southern entrance, you can’t miss the mighty 7-storey sculptural gateway, with two giant blue grass-like structures flanking the main road. The brilliant blue is particularly impressive lit up underneath a starry night sky.
The sculpture was designed by three local artists as a tribute to the indigenous Satin Bowerbird. The intertwining sticks symbolise the bowerbird’s nest, and their love of the colour blue.
Photographer's Tips
Photographer: Darryl Whitaker
Make sure you park off the roadside and set up in a safe location before setting up for your photography. You can check the light pollution map before you plan your shoot.
Always use a sturdy tripod, the camera must not move during exposure.
Turn off all image's stabilisation, on lens and in body.
Use the inbuilt 2 second timer or external trigger. The simple act of pushing the shutter button is enough to make the camera move.
Open your f-stop as far as it will go, f 3.5 on most kit lenses.
Your camera will take a 30 second exposure without additional remote release tools. If your image is still underexposed, increase your ISO.
Rug up, it can get cold out there.
Published on under: Nature & Outdoor